I spent two days in Vielha, very near the French border. This village feels a bit like an Alpine skiing village, and although the hotel had a great swimming pool and amazing views, after two days I was ready to reach Seu d’Urgel.
Seu d'Urgell is famous for its "Cathedral, a beautiful example of the Italian-influenced Romanesque style of Catalonia in the 11th and 12th centuries. Also outstanding are the Romanesque church of Sant Miquel, from the 11th century, and the Sagrada Familia, the City Hall, from the 15th century, and a Diocesan Museum, which I did go and see, it holds a valuable manuscript called the Beatus de Lièbana which was impressive.
This town felt very different to Vielha, shame they where repaving all the roads in the old town, so it was a bit disruptive, but I took a couple of pics to give you an idea.
On the second day, I found a craft shop/gallery in the old town run by a a guy called Antonio,
a wood restorer who tells me to go to the Eco Museu in Esterri d’Aneu. It’s only an hour and a half back in the direction of Vielha… but I go.
The Museum is a restored farmhouse of the 18th century and enough objects have been donated to give the place a lived in atmosphere. The village is made of stone and you can really imagine how cold and isolated the mountains could get in winter.
I meet Ignasi Ros who showed me the collection and the shop.
He is passionate about the traditional crafts of the Pyrenean area. He has documented the last important ceramicists in the area and has had reproductions made for the shop.
He admits that the younger generation of potters are very reluctant to copy old things and as for weavers he has only found one…
Seu d'Urgel is also famous for its outdoor activities and the canoeing and Kayaking championships where held here not too long ago. Despite being up here in the mountains, the heat seems to be following me and I watch the kayaking with a little bit of jealousy.
I left feeling I had not done enough in this region.
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